Fat tire electric bikes, or bikes that combine the best parts of fat bikes and electric bikes, have always just made sense to us—the extra-wide tires boost comfort and rollover capability, while an electric motor takes the grueling effort out of powering the big bike. But you don’t have to be a dedicated off-road rider to want one. Reliable fat tire electric bikes dip now below the $1,500 threshold, making them an attractive option for anyone looking to explore all types of terrain, including city streets. Here are the best fat tire e-bikes for hunting, backcountry exploring, commuting, and more.
Need more rider recs? Check out our picks for the best cheap electric bikes, folding e-bikes, and indoor trainers.
The Best Fat Tire Electric Bikes
The Experts:
What to Consider
Comfortable Ride
High-volume tires allow you to run low tire pressures, and low tire pressures typically beget a more comfortable ride. Fat bike tires take that notion to the extreme. Whereas you might run 60+ pounds per square inch (psi) for a road bike, 40+ psi for a hybrid, and 20+ psi for a mountain bike, fat bikes allow you to ride with as little as 5 to 10 psi in your tires. You’ll want to add pressure for pavement and remove air for off-road riding, as the overall decrease in tire pressure allows the tires to compress over bumps, smoothing out the ride for you.
Off-Road Capability
Another benefit of big tires and low pressures is off-road capability. Fat tire electric bikes can better traverse snow, sand, mud, and some mountain bike trails—depending on trail difficulty and your own handling skills—than bikes with traditional-width tires. That said, most of the fat electric bikes here are not built for technical trails and singletrack. For this type of riding, consider a dedicated electric mountain bike. These bikes have improved geometry, motors tuned for off-road speeds, and components built to withstand the added stresses.
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Fewer, But More Inconvenient, Flat Tires
Fat bike tires can go flat for various reasons, but one advantage to the construction is their resistance to pinch flats: The tire sidewall is so tall that it’s more difficult to compress it fully and pinch the tube against the rim. Still, you’re susceptible to punctures and tears from off-road and urban riding, and carrying a fat tire tube is more inconvenient than a standard tube. If you flat on the wheel with the hub motor (some of our picks have this style), you’ll have to unplug the motor to disconnect the wheel and change the flat. Practice this at home so you know how to do it on the road, and carry an extra tube, flat kit, and pump. If you’re plagued by punctures where you live, consider investing in tire liners to fortify your rubber.
Not As Easy to Transport
Generally speaking, most electric bikes have some heft to them. Even the zippy Specialized S-Works Turbo Creo SL e-road bike weighs 27 pounds, about half of most e-commuters and electric mountain bikes. Add beefy tires, and some fat tire electric bikes soar above 70—even 80—pounds. That’s fine if you park your e-bike in a garage and roll it out for rides from home. But if you want to take your fat tire e-bike somewhere else, you’ll have to lift it into the bed of a pickup or load it up onto a dedicated e-bike rack with a compatible weight minimum—unless you decide to go with a folding bike.
How We Evaluated
Our team of experienced testers and riders spends many hours and miles riding all sorts of electric bikes, from e-mountain and road to e-commuters and folding. We used most of these fat tire e-bikes on bike paths and in town around our Easton, Pennsylvania, office—to grab lunch, commute to and from work quickly, pick up beer and groceries, or just for fun. The thing about fat tires is that they nudge you to go pretty much anywhere and try pretty much anything without fear—which can be both a good thing and a bad one (one tester jumped the Aventon Sinch over a blazing 6-foot-wide fire pit). We tested most of the bikes here. And for the ones we didn’t, we based their merit on our experience and rigorous research to compare the bikes’ value, parts, and performance to those we have tested.
The RadRover has been the most popular fat tire electric bike in the U.S., according to import records from China that show Rad imports surpassing other competitors by a significant margin. So think of the RadRover as the Ford Model T of fat tire e-bikes: cheap, reliable, and for everyone. There’s ample power from a 750-watt (W) geared hub motor to help you get the 72-pound bike up to speed, and hydraulic disc brakes to stop it. Puncture-resistant, 4-inch-wide tires reliably help you get where you’re going. A comfortable saddle, fenders, and integrated lights round out this well-equipped adventure machine.
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Swagtron’s EB-8 Outlaw isn’t just a mash-up between the genres of fat bike and e-bike—it also sits at the center of a Venn diagram that includes “folding bike.” The compact 7-speed bike boasts 20-inch wheels with 4-inch tires and front and rear suspension for navigating both pavement and gravel. It can go up to 21 miles at full power, tops out at 18.6 mph, and stows down into a small trunk space—making it ideal for commuting or bringing on road trips, if you can hoist its 56-pound weight. Just note that with e-bike cost savings, you’re sacrificing battery quality—in this case, riders have reported quality control issues with the batteries and mechanical disc brakes.
“Big” is the best descriptor for this larger-than-life Aventure.2 e-bike. Aventon combined big tires and big power to make a bike with the potential for big fun. Four-inch-wide tires and a suspension fork provide extra comfort when riding over broken pavement or fire road and doubletrack-type trails. The Aventure.2’s rear-hub motor delivers 750W of torquey power and pedal assistance up to 28 mph, or 20 mph, via the thumb-operated throttle. The Aventure.2 also rides much smoother than the original Aventure, thanks to a new torque sensor that allows more control over acceleration. The bike comes outfitted with fenders, hydraulic disc brakes, integrated LED lights, and the option to add accessories, like a front or rear rack. But, all of these big features result in big weight, too.
With a suspension fork and 4-inch-wide tires, Aventon’s Sinch broadens the types of terrain on which you can ride your folding e-bike. A 500W motor gives you the power and torque you need to climb hills, and a throttle gives you the option of not pedaling at all. Its off-road stature means the Sinch isn’t as portable as most folding electric bikes; it’s 66 pounds and takes up nearly 17 cubic feet while folded. That means the Sinch is better for people buying a folding e-bike to take up minimal space in an RV or apartment, not those needing to carry their bike regularly. The Sinch is also available in a step-through model, in Moss Green and Bonfire Red, with stylish gumwall tires.
QuietKat partnered with Jeep to make this the Wrangler of e-bikes with a tank-like build and power, for when you plan to ride on private land and unrestricted areas and want zero limits on your outdoor adventures. The bike is available with either a 750-or 1,000W motor, a RockShox Monarch RL shock, a QuietKat Inverted air fork, and burly 4.8-inch knobby tires for taking on rutted trails, rocks, and roots. It’s got a SRAM 9-speed drivetrain and the power to get you to the top of technical climbs, plus Tektro four-piston hydraulic disc brakes for helping you maintain control on the way down. The Overlander’s Kit of optional accessories lets you turn the bike into something of a touring rig and extend the 44-mile maximum range with a portable solar charging station, which packs down to just over 12 inches long. Also among the many hunting accessories QuietKat offers on its site is the all-terrain QuietKat Game Trailer, which comes in handy for hauling in gear and firewood or hauling out a buck.
This QuietKat may not have the ridiculously fat tires of the company’s Jeep E-Bike (above), but that doesn’t mean it can’t traverse the backcountry to get you to your favorite hunting spot. With 3-inch Kenda tires, a step-through frame, and a 100mm coil suspension fork, the Villager is designed to feel maneuverable on all terrain, from smooth and choppy city streets to gravel and grassy trails. The bike also has a relatively light build (for an electric fat bike) that makes it easier to handle while dismounted, with a battery that appears smoothly integrated into the frame. QuietKat has several well-considered accessory groupings—the Angler’s Kit, Urban Commuter Kit, and Overland’s Kit—that make it easier to get what you want from the bike, whether you plan to ride to work or take the bike on a backcountry fishing adventure, powered by a portable solar-charging station.
The Blix Ultra packs some serious power, with a 750W motor that the brand says actually has a peak power rating of 1,350 watts, plus an 80-mile range, thanks to a dual 48-volt, 14.5-amp-hour battery setup that doubles the bike’s distance capacity. You can use the Ultra in pedal-assist or throttle mode as a Class 2 or Class 3 e-bike, which means it can top out at 20mph or sprint up to 28. The bike is also packed with add-ons and other practical features, including an LED front light, hydraulic disc brakes, 4-inch fat tires, a front suspension fork with 80mm of travel for smoothing rough roads, and an integrated app for route navigation and controlling the bike’s settings. As with most new fat e-bike setups, there are also tons of useful accessories to choose from (and lots of “smart mounts” to accommodate them), like front racks, baskets, rear racks, fenders, and kids’ seats
Another bike that nails the utilitarian trifecta of being fat tired, folding, and e-assisted, the RadExpand 5 improves on its predecessor, the RadMini 4, by shaving 5 pounds off the bike’s total weight and widening the tires from 3 to 4 inches. The result is a bike that won’t win any classic style awards but serves up a ton of functionality in a powerful but compact and stow-able package. The bike has a low step-thru frame—so it fits riders between about 4-foot-10 and 5-foot-10—and a 275-pound capacity, which allows you to also haul cargo on the included rear rack. Mechanical disc brakes come standard on all Rad Power bikes—though they’re not as powerful as hydraulic discs, they get the job done. The bike also comes outfitted with a front light and LED tail light, and a 7-Speed MicroShift derailleur that’s easy to operate via the thumb shifter.
Out of all the utility e-bikes we’ve ridden, Benno’s RemiDemi looks and feels the most like zipping through town on a Vespa or some other stylish motorized scooter. This is for a few reasons: One, the bike is as cute as it is functional, with a colorful and compact frame built on a shorter-than usual 1,130mm wheelbase; and two, the Performance Sport model has a throttle that revs it up to 28mph and makes you feel like you’re really flying. In terms of functionality, the RemiDemi’s Bosch Performance mid-drive motor has a generous estimated range of 80mph on a single charge—and the bike has a 9-speed Shimano drivetrain, hydraulic disc brakes, and excellent list of accessory options, both included (fenders, integrated LED lights, a rear rack) and available at an additional cost (front racks, pannier bags, kids’ seats, and more). It’s the ideal city commuter, though its tough 4.25-inch Duro Tires are capable on rough terrain, as well.
Bicycling Experts Answer Your Most Commonly Asked Questions About Electric Bikes
FAQ: What are some of the biggest differences between a bike with a 250W motor and a 500W or 750W motor? How much power do you really need?
Bicycling: This is a more complicated question than it seems. Our expert panel is mixed on what motor wattage can mean for your ride. Test editor Dan Chabonov says it depends on the terrain and how many gears the bike has. “You could get away with a 250W motor somewhere flat, though a fat tire e-bike will likely be heavy enough that it will still struggle to get going,” he says. “For a fat e-bike, 400W to 500W should ensure a good user experience—and if you live on a hill, get the most powerful motor you can afford.”
Senior test editor Matt Phillips has a different and more complicated take. “The biggest differences are probably marketing,” he says. “Most e-bike motors have two wattage ratings: a constant rating (how much power the motor can consume for an essentially infinite time period without burning up) and a peak. Many brands will use a motor’s peak rating in their marketing because it’s bigger and therefore sexier than the constant rating. Two things about the peak rating, though: One, the motor can only hit that for a very short period of time before damage occurs, so it’s not really relevant to day-to-day use; and two, watts are a unit of consumption, which means that an inefficient motor will use more watts than an efficient motor, even if—for practical purposes—they produced the same assistance. So, a 350W motor sounds more powerful than a 250W motor, but it just might mean that it’s shittier. As far as how much you need, as far as I’m concerned, get the most powerful motor and biggest battery you can find/afford. You can always turn down the assist on a more powerful bike.”
Deputy editor Tara Seplavy has a similarly nuanced take about wattage numbers. “Not all wattage is marketed equally—there is a difference between ‘peak’ wattage and ‘sustained’ wattage,” she says. So a 750W motor from brand X might be more powerful than a 750W motor from brand Y. For example, the Aventon Aventure’s 750W motor can sustain 750 watts, but its peak is 1,040. As for your wattage needs, that depends on your intended usage of the bike, she says. “If you are a heavier-weight rider, if the bike is heavier, if you live in a hilly area, or if you intend to ride the bike off paved surfaces, a higher wattage system is important,” she says. “Wattage needs are also different for hub-motor vs. mid-motor bikes. A mid-drive bike with 250W motor can feel significantly more powerful than a hub-drive bike with a 750W motor.”
FAQ: Where and when can I legally ride an e-bike that goes over 20mph?
Bicycling: This can vary by state, and by city, and even by type of road surface. For example, in Durango, Colorado, where Phillips lives, “it is or was legal to ride a Class 3 e-bike on the roads, but it was prohibited on the bike paths and multi-use trails,” he says. You’ll want to check into your local restrictions, which are constantly being updated to reflect changes in bikes and rider usage. But first you should understand the e-bike classification system. E-bikes are grouped into a system that categorizes them as Class 1, or pedal-assist bikes only, with no throttle, with a maximum assisted speed of 20 mph; Class 2, or bikes that have a maximum assisted speed of 20 mph, but are throttle-assisted; and Class 3, or bikes that are pedal-assist only, with no throttle, and a maximum assisted speed of 28 mph. Many areas base their restrictions on those classifications—and though there are some national CPSC guidelines, according to Phillips, it’s tough to make any blanket statements about legality. QuietKat’s website has this useful summary of state-by-state regulations.
FAQ: Can you get an e-bike repaired at a regular bike shop?
Bicycling: On this, Chabanov, Phillips, and Seplavy agree that it depends on the shop. “Some places don’t have a repair stand that can sustain the weight of some e-bikes, but most should be able to do normal bike repairs, like gear adjustments and flat fixes,” says Chabonov.
Seplavy elaborates: “These bikes are heavy and can be difficult to work on for even very experienced mechanics. If you’re not confident doing your own repairs, call around to find a shop that will repair e-bikes before you find yourself stuck needing something fixed. Some shops will not or cannot work on them due to insurance liability issues, while others might only work on the mechanical parts (or even require you to remove the battery before dropping it off). Repairs on e-bikes (especially hub-motor e-bikes) will generally cost more as the bikes are more difficult to work on. The shops aren’t being snobby or dismissive, the bikes really do take much longer to fix than non-assist bikes.”
Phillips adds that it’s best to check in with the motor manufacturer (for example, Bosch) or the bike brand to see what shops are certified to work on their equipment.
FAQ: How many miles can you usually get on a single battery charge? And where can I charge my e-bike?
Bicycling: “This will vary greatly based on your weight, the bike’s weight, the level of assist you use, how hilly your route is, and how big your battery is—but bikes should be capable of somewhere between 20 and 45 miles,” Chabanov says. Seplavy adds one thing, “Using that throttle is a lot of fun, but use it wisely if you intend to ride long distances as it will quickly drain your battery.”
As far as where to charge it, Phillips says: “All e-bikes that I know have chargers that plug into a standard household outlet. I don’t know of any commercial e-bike charging stations similar to the Tesla Supercharger network. Not that e-bikes need that because they can be charged easily and fairly quickly off household current.” And if the bike’s battery comes off, it’s even easier to take it inside with you and charge at any outlet.
